Preventing Rock Climbing Hand & Tendon Injuries: Part 3 - Dynamic Hang Boarding - Bottom Up

How do you hangboard? Are you a long-time rock climber who wants to climb for a lifetime? A beginner climber who wants to train right and train smart to prevent injury? Are you currently side-lined due to a tendon or pulley injury in your hand and want to know how to rehabilitate it? Are you scared by witnessing your friends get sidelined from finger injuries for months or years and you want to do what you can so this doesn’t happen to you?

https://youtu.be/NuPYYDr0MB8

This is a long-awaited Part 3 to our video series about preventing rock climbing finger, pulley, and tendon injuries in the hand. Make sure to watch videos Part 1 & Part 2, if you haven't already, in which Dr. Elle explains why injuries commonly occur in the hand and tendons/pulleys of the hand, how your technique may be contributing to this, and why strengthening your hand, not just your forearm is important for preventing this and rehabilitating injuries here.

In this climbing training video, Dr. Elle addresses a common training error in hang board training - when climbers only hang statically. Climbing is not static and the abrupt movements in climbing are associated with injury, especially when projecting a route or problem, when fatigued, and when under-trained - all of which are common. You need to bridge that gap in your training. Here is a bottom up way to improve your hangboard training to include more dynamic load to your fingers and make them more resilient to injury.

Comment below with any questions and let Dr. Elle know what questions you have. This shelter-in-place is a great opportunity to train weaknesses and correct imbalances in your body to get you climbing healthy for a lifetime.

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Headstands & Handstands - April Daily Fitness Challenge

Routines are good for our life, and are healthy. But our body and our mind also thrives with some variety. Neuroplasticity is a concept in phenomenon increasingly studied the demonstrates how the brain is always changing. It changes for the Better or For Worse depending on the inputs that we put in.

The daily fitness challenge that I have been taking part in since October is a mix of both these. There has been the daily routine of consistently challenging the body, but also variety as how the body is challenged each day varies and also there has been a different theme each month - running, abdominal and core strengthening, hip and shoulder stability, pull-ups, and this month is something else.

So trying new things is good for the muscles and the joints, ligaments and tendons, but also for the mind and the spirit. At the beginning of this year I set out an overall theme for the year. This year I'm focusing on theme of produce, which basically means working on moving forward and creating, without too much of the limiting mindset that can stop you from creating and participating and sharing. So I brainstormed what are some things that I might like to learn this year and some challenges I'd like to take on. Enter headstands and handstands. I haven't given them much thought before and I've never tried to do them. But I thought why not try and learn this new skill and just see how I do.

Liz's baseline attempts at headstand with her watchful assistant and spotter.

Trying a new physical skill might mean some preparation is needed in order to do this healthily. Thankfully as a physical therapist, I have good insight into the strength needed and the flexibility needed to be able to put weight through my shoulders.

In trying this new skill I'm excited for the new opportunities that this presents for my body to grow, and strengthen, and learn new balance and ways to control itself. Some of my Approach will involve trying the overall skill, but I will also break it down into small parts to allow my body to have the best chance for success. I look forward to learning from others who are skilled in the area of handstands and headstands and learning some techniques. I plan to try some of the techniques described in this well done instructional video from the UK.

This month a focus on headstands and handstands I hope to be fun as I learn a new skill that I'm not good at. But I also know this will be a good compliment two activities that I like to do that strengthen my body in the other direction, namely, climbing and swimming. Both climbing and swimming are pulling motions and really activate muscles such as the latissimus dorsi and teres major which pull your arm down into more of a handcuff position. Pressing away in pressing overhead will be new challenges for me that have been overlooked and are often overlooked in rock climbers and swimmers, including triathletes, and lead to muscle imbalances, which put increasing strain on joints, tendons, ligaments, and muscles. The strain overtime can lead to pain and dysfunction and difficulty doing the activities we love.

I'll be posting videos primarily on Instagram so follow us there @artisanphysical, but also intermittently on Facebook and here on the blog.

Want to join in on this challenge? I'd love to have you join in and share your successes and challenges. Arr you going to try a different daily fitness challenge? I'd love to hear about that too. Have ideas and suggestions for Liz's next daily fitness challenge? I'd love to hear that too.

Let's get to the source, AND TOGETHER, let's get moving!

Liz

Exercise recommendations for Minimizing IT (iliotibial) Band Tightness

Did you watch the first video in my 2-part series about IT (iliotibial) band tightness and have been waiting ever since for video 2? Well, wait no longer, for that moment has finally arrived! In part 1, I explained the anatomy of the IT Band and how it can become tight and problematic. It is often muscle imbalances that lead to this or sometimes just shear volume of activity and training.

In this video, I detail some of the practical, basic stretching and strengthening exercises that I recommend for people's whose IT Band and tensor fasciae latae (TFL) are tight, particularly due to the TFL/ITB serving as an "overachiever" muscle in the hip.

Enjoy the video.  Contact me with any questions and/or suggestions for future video topics.

Let's get to the source, and together, get moving!

Liz

Injury Prevention for Cycling - Giving Back

A couple week ago, I spent some time teaching some injury prevention exercises for Team in Training coaches/mentors as they prepare to train others to ride 100 miles in "Americas Most Beautiful Bike Ride" to raise funds for lymphoma and leukemia ‬ research. I am so grateful and had so much fun giving to folks who are also giving. Definite paying it forward! Not only are they making their own life better by taking on the physical challenge to properly train for an 100 mile bike ride this June, they are doing it for a fantastic cause.

What I did was give them an overview of stretching and common areas such as the hip flexors, iliotibial band, and neck muscles that become tight due to use and position while on the road bike. We also discussed common alignment or positioning problems that people have when on the biking or pedaling.

Interested in what I suggested? Leave a comment and join the RSS feed for the blog and I'll send you the pdf of the exercises.

‪Thank you Team in Training - Los Angeles for the opportunity to help with this great cause.

To learn more about Team in Training visit the Team in Training website. To learn more about the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society visit the Leukemia & Lymphoma society website.