Preventing Rock Climbing Hand & Tendon Injuries: Part 3 - Dynamic Hang Boarding - Bottom Up

How do you hangboard? Are you a long-time rock climber who wants to climb for a lifetime? A beginner climber who wants to train right and train smart to prevent injury? Are you currently side-lined due to a tendon or pulley injury in your hand and want to know how to rehabilitate it? Are you scared by witnessing your friends get sidelined from finger injuries for months or years and you want to do what you can so this doesn’t happen to you?

https://youtu.be/NuPYYDr0MB8

This is a long-awaited Part 3 to our video series about preventing rock climbing finger, pulley, and tendon injuries in the hand. Make sure to watch videos Part 1 & Part 2, if you haven't already, in which Dr. Elle explains why injuries commonly occur in the hand and tendons/pulleys of the hand, how your technique may be contributing to this, and why strengthening your hand, not just your forearm is important for preventing this and rehabilitating injuries here.

In this climbing training video, Dr. Elle addresses a common training error in hang board training - when climbers only hang statically. Climbing is not static and the abrupt movements in climbing are associated with injury, especially when projecting a route or problem, when fatigued, and when under-trained - all of which are common. You need to bridge that gap in your training. Here is a bottom up way to improve your hangboard training to include more dynamic load to your fingers and make them more resilient to injury.

Comment below with any questions and let Dr. Elle know what questions you have. This shelter-in-place is a great opportunity to train weaknesses and correct imbalances in your body to get you climbing healthy for a lifetime.

Make sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel to not miss any of our educational videos.

Tuesday Tune-up: Non-weightbearing Gluteus Medius Conditioning superset

Really want to get your hips strong for walking, hiking, running and any sports that require you to be on one leg? These exercises are for you! Injured and limited in your running abilities? Do these to be ready to hit the ground running? Want to fatigue less easily and be less likely to get injured while running? This superset of gluteus medium non-weightbearing endurance and motor control exercises will get you well on your way. Bonus it will also work on your back stability, strength, conditioning, control, and endurance! Yes!

Be aware, this is not a beginner exercise, but helpful for those looking to take their health to the next level of endurance and more thorough strength. Reach out to Artisan PT for a remote wellness consultation via video or schedule a wellness or physical therapy visit at our Los Angeles office to see what exercises are best for you, at this moment of time.

We are currently doing Tuesday Tune-ups on our Instagram feed and IGTV. Follow us at @artisanphysical to make sure you don’t miss out. As appropriate, we will do our best to also upload to our Artisan Physical Therapy YouTube channel as well. Make sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel to get notifications about new videos on how to live your healthiest life. Don’t miss out.

That’s our goal at Artisan PT: to partner with you to optimize your health for a lifetime.

Thank for reading and watching,

Elle

(owner, doctor of physical therapy, fellow in orthopedic manual PT)

(PS: These hip abduction/abductor exercises are helpful for preventing pain and improving tolerance to running, walking, hiking, skateboarding, soccer, ultimate frisbee, basketball, volleyball, triathlon, mountain biking, yoga, dancing, and anything else you spend time on one leg!)

Arm Strengthening for Climbers: Hand Sloper Strengthening with Rotator Cuff and Scapular Stability

Are you a long-time rock climber who wants to climb for a lifetime? Do you want to train right and train smart to prevent injury? Do you wish your hand strength was better for slopers and other open-handed grips while rock climbing?
In this video, Dr. Bottrell introduces a quick series of exercises that strengthens your hand and forearm in open hand positioning for slopers while simultaneously strengthening and increasing the stability of the rotator cuff and scapular (shoulder blade) muscles and joints. Incorporating exercises such as these present the opportunity for better performance & longevity of climbing of a lifetime, decreased likelihood of injury.

Bear in mind these are general recommendations, and a certain amount of strength and fitness are needed.
Interested in what weighted ball uses in this video? It's the Gymnic Heavymed 2 kg weighted ball for resistance.

3 Simple Strengthening Exercises to Prevent Climbing Shoulder Injuries

Today we have a guest post from a friend and fellow colleague on preventing shoulder climbing injuries. Dr. Jared Vagy - The Climbing Doctor - out of Los Angeles, California works with high level climbers and teaches at USC. The following is an excerpt from his blog post. 

"It is the end of the day. You are tired and beat, but you decide to give it one last go on your project. You get to the crux move and give it everything you’ve got. Suddenly you feel a sharp pain in your shoulder. You know that you likely injured your shoulder. What happened and what could you have done to prevent this?

The tendons in the shoulder slide through a very narrow passageway and attach to the shoulder bone. Impingement occurs when the space between the bones in this passageway is reduced. This can occur from repetitively moving the shoulder into a stressful or suboptimal position. When this occurs, the bones in the shoulder pinch down on the tendons and cause shoulder impingement. You should be aware of the dangerous movements that can lead to shoulder impingement. These movements include hanging on your arms during rest stances, climbing with a hunched posture and strenuous overhead reaching."

Bent over T's, Y's, and L's:

Dirtbag tip - use items you have around: cans, bottles to provide the weight.

These should not cause any shoulder pain! 

Climb INJURY-FREE

Dr. Vagy just released another book! 

You can find it on Amazon now.

Thanks, Dr. Vagy for the helpful content.

Any questions? Comment below. 

What Stretches are Right for After Running?

We frequently get the question of: What stretches should I do before versus after a run? No one solution is right for everyone and every situation, but a dynamic cool down is very appropriate for after a run when your muscles are very warmed up, but have shortened from repetitive use.

This quick one to two minute routine should reduce the soreness, stiffness, and tightness you feel after a run. Muscles only know how to shorten and this happens over and over with running, we have to make them lengthen through their full range.

In this video, demonstrates a quick 1 minute stretch routine to be done to stretch the thighs and hips - that is - glutes, quads, hamstrings, and hip flexors after a run. (Note: you will need to stretch the calves/gastroc/soleus separately).

Happy trails and happy stretching!

As always, comment with any questions and any suggestions for future videos. Subscribe to the YouTube channel to not miss out on any videos. 

Let's get to the source, and TOGETHER, let's get moving!

Preventing Rock Climbing Hand & Tendon Injuries: Part 2 - Techniques For Open Grip Strengthening

People are often injured by trying to progress too quickly and this is very prevalent in rock climbing. People fall hard for the sport and enjoy the challenge of pushing their limits, but lack the knowledge needed to stay healthy, prevent injury, and thus climb for a lifetime and not have to take months and month off due to tendon or pulley injuries in their hands or forearms.

In this video you'll learn the how-to principles of hand strengthening to cross train to improve open grip strength and reduce hand pulley and tendon injuries for rock climbers. Climb better, climb harder, climb longer. Climb for a lifetime.

For a personalized assessment, contact us at our Portland office.

If you have injured this area, make sure to give sufficient rest and see your local PT who specializes in manual therapy & treating climbers to learn how to get back to your prior level and incorporate this open hand strengthening to improve your grip and reduce compensatory strategies that overload your pulleys. Also find out how shoulder weakness, for example, can influence which grip you choose. 

This is Part 2 of a 2 Part series, with the possibility of a Part 3 adapted to interest, questions, and feedback from the first 2 Parts. Watch Part 1 to learn why hand strengthening matters to prevent injury and the important of incorporating into your climbing routine. Questions? Should we do a Part 3?

Let's Get to the Source, and TOGETHER, Let's Get Moving!

Preventing Rock Climbing Hand & Tendon Injuries: Part 1 - Why Hand Strengthening is Important

Are you a long-time rock climber who wants to climb for a lifetime? A beginner climber who wants to train right and train smart to prevent injury? Are you currently side-lined due to a tendon or pulley injury in your hand and want to know how to rehabilitate it?

In this video, Liz explains why injuries commonly occur in the hand and tendons/pulleys of the hand, how your technique may be contributing to this, and why strengthening your hand, not just your forearm is important for preventing this and rehabilitating injuries here.
This is Part 1 of a 2 Part series, with the possibility of a Part 3 adapted to interest, questions, and feedback from the first 2 Parts. Watch Part 2 to learn specific techniques, strategies, and exercises to incorporate into your climbing routine.

The weather is warming up and it's time to climb!

We can take it to the next level and help you with focused and personalized examinations in our downtown Portland location or with mobile therapy throughout the Portland, Oregon area. 

Climbing clinic: Upper Body Strengthening

An Upper Body Strengthening Clinic for Climbing Injury Prevention and Performance

Sound interesting? Join Liz tonight at Stronghold Climbing Gym in Los Angeles for an interactive clinic on upper body strengthening for injury prevention, performance, and longevity for climbers. Climbing can lead to overuse problems and muscle imbalance injuries. In this clinic you will learn principles and specific strengthening exercises for shoulders, elbows, and hands, to reduce the likelihood of such injuries occurring and to learn safe ways to strengthen.

7:30-9:00pm

Free Personal Advice!

Come out this Saturday, Feb 13th for your free 15 minute consultation with a movement & injury rehabilitation specialist. This is the next installment of "PT Days with Liz Bottrell" at Fleet Feet - a great and friendly running store in Burbank, California. If you're keen, join in the weekly 3 or 5 mile run beforehand. To sign up, use this link from their website.  Liz is looking forward to venturing out of Echo Park to chat it up with the running community.

Can't make it? Subscribe to the newsletter by Sunday the 14th and get your free transformative Runner's Stretching Guide delivered directly to your inbox.

Let's show ourselves some self-love this month & spend a little extra time taking care of our physical health.

2 Simple Exercises for a Healthy Rotator Cuff

Want to have healthy shoulders and rotator cuff? Want to prevent injury when swimming, doing yoga, while weightlifting or crossfit? Want to rockclimb better? Want to play tennis and volleyball for years? Then take a couple minutes and learn a few strengthening exercises for the rotator cuff using an exercise band. The exercises are simple and easy to do wherever you are! No fancy or expensive equipment needed!

Have lingering shoulder pain, a prior rotator cuff tear, aching or weakness? Try these as some basic strengthening.

The rotator cuff is extremely important for basically all arm movement and certainly all shoulder motions. Make sure your rotator cuff is strong and has a lot of endurance to prevent injury!

For recommendations specific to your situation and body, contact Liz in Los Angeles or your neighborhood physical therapist. We are the movement specialist.

Let's get to the source, and TOGETHER, get moving!

Until next time,

Liz

5 Best Neck Posture Exercises

Have you noticed a prominence or lump developing in your upper back and wondered what it was, and if you can do anything about it?

A friend of mine last week asked a question. What is this lump on the back of my neck? When I heard the word "lump," I was not hopeful that this was something a physical therapist could help with. A quick examination revealed that his spine was changing shape over time and he was developing a bony prominence where his neck and upper back meet. Why? This often takes place from repeated stress on the area over time. The forward slouched sitting posture so many of us find ourselves throughout the day while we are doing activities such as studying, working on the computer, driving, and reading.

Think about the elderly person with the stooped posture and rounded upper back. This didn't happen over night but was from poor sustained postures that resulted in progressive stiffness and weakness that eventually prevented them from sitting and standing with a straight back and neck. I like to say the body adapts to what we do to it and the spine is like wet cement that is hardening - what position do you want it to stiffen into?

(Disclaimer: Some people with stooped postures (aka excessive kyphosis) have pathological conditions in their spines that lead to these deformities, not simply due to impaired posture).

What can be done about it? My friend wanted answers! He might not be able to change his "lump" that is already there due to bony changes that have already occurred but maybe we can help it from increasing by working on some posture exercises to improve the flexibility of the thoracic and cervical spine and improve the strength of the muscles that hold these positions. Fortunately for him, His condition isn't painful yet. Doing some simple posture exercises can prevent painful conditions from forming in his neck and shoulders and even reduce headaches.

Subscribe to the blog and get access to the to 5 Best Neck Posture Exercises delivered to your inbox! Who doesn't love free professional advice?

Comment below for any questions you have for a physical therapist and Liz may answer your question in a future blog post!

Iliotibial (IT) Band Tightness/Syndrome - Anatomy, the Why, & the What

Iliotibial band or IT band tightness effects a large segment of the population and can manifest itself in many negative ways. It can get tight in the sedentary (aka non-active) population but is a common problem with runners, bikers, and cross fit participants or those regularly lifting weights.

Liz created a 2-part video series to help you understand the issue and what to do about IT band tightness and IT band syndrome. In this first segment, Liz talks about what the IT band is and why it becomes problematic. Then discusses some general ways to manage or prevent it. The follow-up to this video will go through specific stretching and strengthening exercises that are beneficial for minimizing IT band tightness.

Subscribe to the blog and the Artisan Physical Therapy YouTube channel to benefit from free advice and education from a movement specialist including part 2 of the IT band tightness series to get the exercise recommendations and demonstration.

Together, Let's Get Moving!

Liz

Injury Prevention for Cycling - Giving Back

A couple week ago, I spent some time teaching some injury prevention exercises for Team in Training coaches/mentors as they prepare to train others to ride 100 miles in "Americas Most Beautiful Bike Ride" to raise funds for lymphoma and leukemia ‬ research. I am so grateful and had so much fun giving to folks who are also giving. Definite paying it forward! Not only are they making their own life better by taking on the physical challenge to properly train for an 100 mile bike ride this June, they are doing it for a fantastic cause.

What I did was give them an overview of stretching and common areas such as the hip flexors, iliotibial band, and neck muscles that become tight due to use and position while on the road bike. We also discussed common alignment or positioning problems that people have when on the biking or pedaling.

Interested in what I suggested? Leave a comment and join the RSS feed for the blog and I'll send you the pdf of the exercises.

‪Thank you Team in Training - Los Angeles for the opportunity to help with this great cause.

To learn more about Team in Training visit the Team in Training website. To learn more about the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society visit the Leukemia & Lymphoma society website.